Around The World (And Then Some)

FINAL STOP: Ibiza!

2007-07-12T06:40:00.000-07:00

What better way to end our trip around the world than with Ibiza- the party capital of Europe! Arriving in this beautiful Spanish island town was bittersweet. After all, our 8-month journey has finally come to a close. Sure, we're excited to return to our life in LA. Yeah, we're looking forward to seeing friends and family. Of course, we are thrilled to embark on new adventures. Nevertheless, we're going to miss the carefree days of discovering new places, cuisines, and most importantly - new people. That said, it was an absolute joy that our final stop was spent with newly acquired friends: Peter and Tomke (and their adorable son, Philipe).

We met Peter and Tomke in the Maldives (see March 1st entry if you need to refresh your memory). They flew all the way from Berlin to celebrate the end of our trip with us and we had the best time with them. We spent much of our time at the famous beach clubs and enjoyed long leisurely dinners in the cobblestoned town of Ibiza. But perhaps the most memorable spot was Formentera - a small island just 30 minutes away by boat. The sea water was crystalline and the world famous beachside restaurant 'Juan y Maria' did not disappoint.

We couldn't think of a more appropriate way to finish our RTW trip. Thanks again, Peter and Tomke. You made our time in Ibiza so much sweeter. Having the opportunity to travel as we have this past year was a blessing. And having the opportunity to make great friends along the way... priceless.

Croatia

2007-07-07T01:03:00.000-07:00

It's all the rage these days in travel magazines and websites and after spending a week in Croatia, I totally get why. Tourists are flocking by the thousands to this Slavic-speaking country to see what all the hype is about. Though we had wished we could spend more time there in order to visit some of the nearby islands, we had time only to explore two major cities: Split and Dubrovnik.

Split is a seaside town along the Adriadic Sea (known as the Dalmatian Coast). The actual city's core is made up of an ancient and crumbling Palace. The town itself is still adjusting to the country's newfound fame, but the views are absolutely spectacular. In fact, I would say that flying down to the runway on a clear day supplied us with the most striking view from above of any Mediterranean town we had visited. Split has become a prime location for sailors and motor boaters alike who are seeking less-crowded European waters.

But the must-see city hands down is Dubrovnik. It's hard to believe that Croatia was engaged in a bitter war just 12 years ago. The most striking locale is the walled-off medieval city, still inhabited by those who endured the attack by the Yugoslavs. We walked the entire perimeter of the city from atop the walls and got a good sense of what the city was like, marveling at how well it has recovered in just a few short years. We caught the Summer Festival, which brings in crowds from all over the world. In fact, we were surprised by how many fellow Americans were there on vacation.

I think our brief visit was enticing enough to whet our appetite. With the added benefit of a favorable exchange rate, we plan to return to Croatia to see some of the surrounding islands (perhaps by boat) and to follow up on the progress already made on a fairly recent war-torn region.

Israel

2007-06-26T11:11:00.001-07:00

If you are religious, spiritual, or just interested in the historical aspects of the Judeo-Christian faiths, then venturing to Israel is an absolute necessity. The entire experience, from the flight we took via Germany to arrive in Tel Aviv, to the heavy airport screening that takes place upon entrance and exit from Israel, was memorable. It is a dream of so many to visit Israel and you can't help but feel that energy when you arrive.

If you're like me, the mere thought of 'Israel' conjures up images of violence and grief. But there is another side to Israel that we don't see on CNN. First off, much of the military strife and aggression takes place in a relatively small section of the country, far away from Tel Aviv and Jerusalem and other tourist attractions. While you may see security checkpoints at various places -- on the drive to Masada, for example -- you really don't feel that you may be in any danger. If anything, I have never felt safer.

Tel Aviv is lush, beautiful, and full of love. The beaches are packed from daybreak to evening (and into the wee hours of the morning). The produce is outstanding! I have never tasted watermelon as sweet as the ones we had here.

What's most striking about Tel Aviv is the fact that locals seem like the happiest people on earth. They are full of joy and seem to live every day to its fullest. The Muslim and Jewish sections coexist, and it is normal to find members of both faiths eating at the same restaurants.

Jerusalem, of course, has an entirely unique vibration. We took a tour to the Old City and spent the day visiting all the holy sites -- King David's Tomb, St. James Cathedral, the Holocaust Museum, and the Western Wall. It was emotional to say the least. You can't really help it. We were on the tour with a family from Mexico City. The father and I both felt so overwhelmed with emotion that we cried spontaneously at the entrance of King David's Tomb. I thought my heart was going to jump out of my chest -- it was a feeling I will never forget.

After a few days of relaxing on the magnificent beaches of Tel Aviv, we took a private tour to Masada and the Dead Sea. Masada overlooks the Dead Sea and some pilgrims choose to hike up to the plateau over the course of 4 hours. We took the cable car. Essentially, it is the site of an ancient fortress that was invaded by the Romans. You can see the remains of the synagogue, palace rooms, bathhouses, and storage rooms.

The Dead Sea, scientists speculate, may not be around much longer. So you better hurry before it dries up! Its salt content is so high that you literally float on the water. The feeling is surreal. You almost feel like you may fall over as you're getting in, but once you're afloat, it's magnificent. Just don't get it into your eyes. I couldn't see for a solid 5 minutes. The mud is also highly beneficial to your skin. Lee had more fun playing with the mud than anyone else on the beach that day.

We had just a week in Israel but it really felt like 'home'. Don't be misled by the media, Israel is a safe place to travel to, and as long as you're not frightening by the presence of guns (all the bouncers at the clubs/bars carry them!) you will be in for the spiritual ride of a lifetime.

Sevilla, Spain

2007-06-23T03:27:00.000-07:00

Sevilla is the capital of Andulusia and a 3 hour drive from Marbella. We drove through the beautiful countryside and made our way through the maze that is the central part of Sevilla. Our hotel was located near the heart of the old town, surrounded by the main cathedral, the old Jewish quarter, Alcazar (palace), and of course, dozens of tapas bars.

Unlike in Marbella, you really feel like you're in Spain in this cobblestoned town. We spent two days walking through the narrow streets and alleys and just taking in the traditional Spanish culture. As I've mentioned before, Marbella is not really Spain. It's a beautiful place and the best choice if you're planning to stay over an extended period (as we did). But, it's places like Sevilla that test our fluency of the language, our familiarity with the history and culture, and our not-so tapa savvy tastebuds.

Oslo, Norway

2007-06-12T07:49:00.001-07:00

The best thing about Europe is that most countries are just a hop, skip, and jump away within the continent. Scandanavia is practically a suburb of Spain so we decided to spend a few days in Norway. Lee has been to Sweden already and we've both heard wonderful things about its neighbor to the West.

We arrived at the Oslo airport and took a train through fields of lavender to get to the city. The public transport is immaculate. Most Scandanavians are taught English from a young age. Though language wasn't a huge problem for us, purchasing subway tickets from stand alone machines was challenging because none of the machines included English instructions. Norwegian is unlike anything I've ever read! I recall being in my 7th grade typing class and typing erratically on the keyboard , making up words like 'Det smakde meget god. ' That's what Norwegian looks like to me. I digress...

The most striking part about Scandanavia in the summer is that the days are very long. The sun sets well after midnight and rises around 4 a.m. If the curtains at your hotel are not thick enough, your internal clock can really get screwed up. It was clear that Norwegians were loving every moment of the season. One waitress said that locals are always happier in the summer, but almost bipolar. After all, the winter is dark and the days are very short. I imagine it would be quite depressing.

Speaking of depression, we visited the Munch museum (which houses the infamous 'Scream' painting). Now there's a depressed guy. It's one thing to see a representation of his works in an art history book, but walking through the museum was draining. Every piece of art displayed was gloomy, somber, and often- macabre. We also visited the Viking museum and learned all about their history. They had 3 actual ships displayed that were discovered in the early 1900's that were build in the 800s and were well preserved. See photo. It's also interesting to see how the physical characteristics of these broad, strong, people have been retained today. I've never seen so many tall people.

Of course, there are also the fjords (Lee's favorite word next to archipelago). You can take a 2-hour tour on the water to see them and they are really interesting estuaries, formed in the Ice Age. A few of the longest fjords in the world are in Norway. A must-see.

Next time, I'd like to visit Sweden, Finland, and Iceland as well. There's something unique about that part of the world. It's difficult to explain but the perspective of the sky seems different and the air is crisp and clean. Though we only spent a few days in Norway, it's a place that ranks rather high on the list of countries we have visited on this trip (which is around 20 at this point).

French Riviera

2007-06-04T14:11:00.000-07:00

You've heard of 'wedding crashers' but what about HONEYMOON crashers? Well, our weekend in the South of France was spent doing just that -- crashing our friends' honeymoon! Congratulations again to Greg and Julie on their recent nuptials. Since we were out of the country for their Cabo wedding, we decided to connect with them on their sacred honeymoon.

We started in Nice where the streets are lined in cobblestone and the hillsides are covered with beautiful French villas. We arrived just a week after the Cannes Film Festival and Monaco Grand Prix, which is the busiest time of the year for the region. I can't really compare the South with Paris - which is a magnificent city sans the beautiful crystal blue coast and suntanned locals.

We did what all the French do (except smoke 3 packs/day) - we ate crepes and chocolate crossiants with GOOD coffee in the morning, planned our entire day around lunch, then ate a leisurely 3 hour dinner. In between these meals, the four of us visited Monaco, just a quick 20-minute drive away (hard to believe it is it's own country). The streets were still lined with guard rails from the race held the weekend before. Lee certainly did enjoy driving through
the streets like he was in his very own Formula 1. We also indulged in ice cream, and the boys took a dip in the ice cold ocean.

Traveling has been all about new experiences, new faces, and new stories the past several months but an encounter with old friends gives you some of the sensibilities of home. Like it or not, Julie and Greg will always have us in their honeymoon photo album.

Andulusia (Southern Spain)

2007-05-26T03:31:00.000-07:00

For those of you who actually read this blog, I have two things to say: 1.) THANK YOU for your support and 2.) Sorry this latest entry is so late! By the way, feel free to add comments at the end of the text if you have any. It was wonderful to be home for 2 weeks last month but we were ecstatic about our next (and final) leg of the RTW (and then some) Trip. We left LA on May 1st and have spent the past several weeks in Marbella, Spain. Our apartment is just up the hill from the famous Puerto Banus - the most amazing marina we have ever seen. The port itself is surrounded by fine shops and restaurants and though it pains me to say it, everyone speaks English. Nevertheless, we quickly enrolled in Spanish classes to continue our education. Truth be told, many of the residents are ex-pats from the UK. I joke with Lee that I hadn't thought we'd be going to London this summer.

British accents aside, we love Marbella. We love it so much we haven't really wanted to take many excursions. It took a good 10 days to overcome our jetlag - which was worse than any other part of the trip. It worked to our advantage since everyone wakes up around 10 am, eats lunch around 2 or 3pm, takes a siesta (and a break from the workday) and then eats dinner from 9:30 (with kids) to 11 pm. Our friend Jessica called Puerto Banus the Beverly Hills of Spain and she was definitely right. We have seen more expensive cars in this tiny port town than anywhere else in the world (including Rodeo Drive).

We did manage to take a day trip yesterday to a place I dare say is the most charming town in Spain- Ronda. I'm sure you will be able to decipher it from Marbella in the photos below. Our drive to Ronda through the hills of Adulusia was remarkable. It reminded me of the first scenes in 'The Alchemist' where the shepherd boy guided this cattle. The town of Ronda is a maze of cobblestone roads and Arab-inspired palaces and buildings. We will likely return again before we leave Spain at the end of June. Before I sign off, I want to touch on the subject of Spanish food. I was the first to admit that I never really took a liking to the classic cuisine of Spain. I don't really like tapas and everything else was just blah. I'm not necessarily retracting such opinions but we have had some of the best Seafood, Italian food, and even Indian food right here in Marbella!

Fiji

2007-04-16T16:08:00.000-07:00

Though we are spending the summer in Europe, it was sad to realize that Fiji was our final destination on the RTW trip. We used our time on the tropical island of Nandi to relax and mentally prepare ourselves for the conclusion of our incredible journey. I will not spend much time on this entry except to say that we have a real appreciation for what we have just completed. Our 60th flight to California via Seoul will give us time reflect on the places we visited, what we've seen and learned about our world, and most importantly, how we have changed as a result. As the Fijians say, BULA!

New Zealand

2007-04-08T15:01:00.000-07:00

If you’re like many Americans (myself included), you tend to group New Zealand in the same category as Australia. It’s not our fault entirely. Many travel guides do the same thing (“Australia and New Zealand in 2 Weeks”). But if you ignorantly ask New Zealanders (aka. Kiwis) if they are Australian, you will see their faces grimace within a split second. And whatever you do, DON’T tell them you thought the accents were the same. I think this friendly (and sometimes not-so-friendly) rivalry could be summed up nicely by the T-shirt slogan I saw in a shop window today. It read, “I support two teams: New Zealand and anyone who plays against Australia.’

The truth is these two countries, though beautiful in their own unique way, couldn’t be any more different from one another. New Zealand bears little resemblance to the slightly more popular land down under. New Zealand is, in a phrase, untouched beauty. We started in Christchurch, which is part of the South Island, and worked our way North. We hit a patch of rain in Christchurch and thus spent much of our time in museums and galleries. OK, we would do that anyway! It’s a quaint small town (population of the entire country is 4.1 million) and we decided the best way to see it and the rest of NZ was to drive the country roads. After over 50 flights since November, we were ready to take a break from the friendly skies. Lee was getting acclimated to driving on the opposite side of the road and we really loved seeing the lush green rolling hills that led us up to our second destination: Queenstown.

Queenstown is the capital of adventure. If you are an adrenaline junkie, this is the place for you. You can bungy jump, sky dive, parasail, ride a jet boat, and everything else. We opted to take a ride in the famous shot-over jet (see photo). The experienced boat drivers navigate through the crystal clear waters of the local canyons, inches away from dangerous rocks. It was thrilling.

We drove further north to Rotorua- home to the world’s most incredible geothermal hotspots. I have never seen anything like the volcanic valley of Waimangu, or the geysers in Te Puia. I haven’t given much thought our earth’s core since my college geology course. Witnessing the naturally hot springs and mineral pools (note – the picture of Lee in front of turquoise water is NOT a swimming pool) was amazing. We did some hiking around volcanic lands and learned about the Maori people (note to self: rent ‘Whale Rider’).

Our final stop in New Zealand was to Auckland. We spent four nights in this modern port city, and for the first time, feel like home is just around the corner (albeit for a short two weeks). We are now just 10 days away from the travel respite – and then we’re off to Europe for the summer (that is, WESTERN hemisphere summer). It is Eastern weekend in Auckland and much of the city has closed down. The holiday atmosphere definitely reminds us of our own families and friends and we are anxious to see everyone again. Next stop, and the final stop as we make our way completely around the globe, FIJI!

Australia

2007-03-24T17:33:00.000-07:00

We were greeted in Sydney by glorious sunshine and brand familiarity (namely, Starbucks). Though Lee had been to Sydney before, this was my first visit and I was instantly impressed by everything it had to offer. Admittedly, I was also relived to find some comforts of home (those of you recalling the Buenos Aires blog know of what I speak).

Sydney Harbour is spectacular. In addition to the magnificent Opera House - where I persuaded Lee to see a Danish version of 'The Little Match Girl by Hans Christan Andersen' - there lies an incredible steel bridge that was celebrating 75 years while we were there. We did the infamous "bridge climb," where tourists are strapped in and walk alongside the top of the hanger-shaped bridge. It was intensely high, but a total thrill.

We loved the beautiful beaches and headed further north to the Gold Coast to see a bit more. The Gold Coast gets a bad wrap. Many compare it to Miami or Waikiki Beach (the cheesy side) but the beaches were incredible and the people were the nicest people we have ever met. We rented a car (yes, driving on the opposite side of a road can be challenging) and drove an hour south to Byron Bay, a quaint sleepy town adjacent to the most easterly point of the Australian continent. We differed on this but I actually felt that particular view was more dramaticly beautiful than anything else we had seen. I could have spent all day by that lighthouse, overlooking clear turquoise water.

One fellow traveler said you can spent a lifetime exploring the entirety of Australia. There really is so much to see and every city/town is different from the next. Our last stop was to the tropical northern town of Cairns (pronounced cans). Though it rained throughout our time there, it was the kind of warm rain that is soothing and unobtrusive. When traveling as we have since November, it's easy to feel as though you must see everything there is to see - after all, how many times do you have an opportunity to travel around the world? In Cairns, however, we made an effort to spend time being relatively inactive. Australia, in short, is one of my favorites and since we barely scratched the surface, we will be back.

Shanghai

2007-03-10T00:29:00.000-08:00

Ah Shanghai... Now THIS is China! By contrast to Hong Kong, few people speak English and the weather was quite a bit cooler (OK, freezing!). We had made it almost all the way around the world without needing cold-weather clothes – until Shanghai. While Hong Kong was 80% West and 20% East – Shanghai was 100% Eastern Asia. We explored the city’s museums and galleries and were extremely impressed by the vibrant art scene. One of the neighborhoods we visited had a block of lofts all showcasing young and up-and-coming Chinese contemporary artists. We found one gallery that stood out from the others and purchased a beautiful Miro-esque oil painting by an extremely talented local artist. We loved the food as well. One thing I’ll take with me is that it’s so easy to overlook the rich Chinese culture we have in our America-based Chinatowns. We wish we had more time to explore some of the other cities in China, but it’s time to keep moving around the globe. Perhaps we’ll head to Beijing for the next Olympics. Next stop, down under!

Hong Kong

2007-03-07T00:28:00.000-08:00

We stopped through India (Trivandrum in the south) for a night before taking an overnight flight to Hong Kong via Seoul. The first thing I noticed about Hong Kong was that it was an incredibly clean country – quite a difference from India. The airport was immaculate and it was as if we walked through a giant gate marked, “This way to the First World.” We had just a few nights in Hong Kong and even extended our stay by a night to enjoy it further (plus I was just exhausted from all the moving around). The city skyline lit up beautifully. We didn’t expect to find such a modern technologically forward city in Hong Kong but it was just that- with a generous helping of Chinese culture on the side. Most of the population speaks English fluently and you can locate just about any European/American brand there is to buy – all duty free (the entire country is duty-free port). Hong Kong really doesn’t seem like China. It’s often compared to New York and is very livable for Westerners. I think we could live there for a year or two should an opportunity spring up. But absent that, I would definitely return to see how much further they will move ahead in the coming decades.

Maldives

2007-03-01T03:43:00.000-08:00

Simply put, this place is heaven on earth. I'll keep this entry short and sweet. We spent five relaxing days in the Maldives and recharged our batteries. Though we loved Seychelles, this is our favorite island spot. It beats Hawaii by a landslide, too. Basically, you stay on one of the 1200 islands or so that make up this country. Most resorts own the entire island. We took a sea plane to the resort and spent all of our time on or near the water. We took a sea kayake around the island (which took only an hour), and went snorkeling.

We also met Peter and Tomke from Germany (see photo below). We shared dinner, drinks, and a great deal of laughs with our new friends. If the stars align, we may have an opportunity to spend time with them over the summer while we are in Europe. Great people, great times.

India

2007-02-24T22:08:00.000-08:00

When we told our friends that we were spending two weeks in India, we were met with cautionary tales of 'bolly belly' (ie. when the food just doesn't agree with you), severe abject poverty, and culture shock. I'm here to say that everything you've heard is absolutely... true. We thought we were sufficiently prepared to see the devastatingly poor villages and cities of India but we were not. We also thought that our stomachs had grown accustomed to the joys of traveling through foreign lands with lots of new/strange bacteria. Mine had not! And as far as the cultural differences, our taxi driver asked if our marriage was arranged or a love marriage! Lee promptly responded with "Yes! She arranged the whole thing!"

We started in Mumbai (aka: Bombay) - a city of 13 million people. Our first glimpse of India was in line with everything we expected. The airport scene was chaotic. Even with our late arrival time, there were hoards of people around -- begging, offering taxi tours, and outright staring. That was perhaps the most surprising. Certainly, we are not the most Western-looking people to land in one of the most populated cities in the world. But everywhere we turned, we absorbed very deep, long stares from the locals. But don't get me wrong - you don't feel you're in danger. On the contrary, the people of India are overall spiritual, gentle, and peaceful souls.

We took in the major tourist attractions in Mumbai and spent a great deal of time observing life on the streets. I would be remiss if I didn't touch on the subject of poverty, for it's a glaring reality. If you live in a big city (or even if you don't), chances are you've seen how some people struggle to live on the streets as homeless, drug-addicted, or mentally-ill. But this is an entirely different level of poverty. You see children in the worst possible conditions known on earth. You see their parents trying to provide them shelter on the side of a dirty road with little more than sticks and shreds of cloth. It's heartbreaking to say the least. I think we were both in a solemn mood the first few days. And unlike so many other things in life, I don't think I'll ever get used to seeing such horrific images.

Next, we traveled to New Delhi. This was one of our favorite places in India. The city was quite developed and we got a real taste of the culture taking a rickshaw through the narrow streets of Old Delhi. We became intoxicated by the most incredible smells of spices and incense as we managed our way through the old Hindu and Muslim neighborhoods. Despite some minor stomach pains, we also started to venture further into the spicy cuisines. One of the city's best restaurants is Bukhara - where countless employees informed us that President Clinton had dined while traveling through the country.

We also took a day trip to one of the 7 wonders of the world - the Taj Majal. As my mother reminded me, the monument was actually built by the Persians, or Mughals, who conquered India in the 16th century. The king had the Taj built in honor of his late wife (now that's love). The Taj Majal is located in Agra, which we reached by train. The train ride was quite comfortable and we arrived to more hustle-and-bustle as 'tour guides' and taxis competed for our business. We took some amazing photos of the Taj Mahal. Words simply can't do it justice (see below). Eerily, our train departed from the same station where a bombing occured killing dozens of people on a train.

Our next 2 stops took us to the South. We spent my birthday in a beach town called Goa. It was a Portuguese colony and as one friend told us, it can be viewed as "India Lite." We recharged for a few days before heading further south to Cochin in the state of Kerala. There was a whole different vibe in Kerala. It is quite developed (in terms of infrastructure) and very tropical. Lee likes to make comparisons to cities we know. In this case, it's a bit like Miami with its warm climate, palm trees, and backwaters (like the everglades). One of the most interesting attractions in the old city of Cochin is a 15th Century synagogue that still holds services for the 13 Jewish residents. We visited Sarah Cohen's embroidery shop, where we met one of the 13 remaining Jews. Sarah could be your sweet old grandmother who lives in Brooklyn. We also walked the streets of "Jew Town (which is what they actually named the town)." Who knew?

I think the experience of seeing this incredible country is humbling and life-changing. On the one hand, you can't help but feel grateful and lucky to live in a developed country where concerns over plumbing and clean water never enter your mind. On the other hand, you are silently glad you've been handed the opportunity to view life from a different (albeit desperate) perspective. I don't think we'll ever forget our time here but I hope that the situation improves in our lifetime.

Seychelles

2007-02-09T04:32:00.000-08:00

Have you heard of Seychelles? I’m not ashamed to say that I had no idea about these beautiful islands, off the coast of Kenya and 7 degrees south of the equator. We took the red eye through Kenya to Seychelles and instantly fell in love with the beautiful clear turquoise water. By now, we have visited a handful of tropical destinations and hands down, Seychelles has been the most enchanting (though we still have Fiji and Maldivies left!).

We spent much of our time reading and relaxing. I'm proud to say that I finally got my husband to read one of my books (The Alchemist) as a respite from all of his business publications. We took a sunset cruise around Mahe island (the most inhabited), went snorkeling, played billiards, and made new friends (see photo below). Bryan and Vibeke - from Australia and Denmark respectively - live in Dubai and are expecting their first child. We had a great time getting to know them. Meeting interesting and kind people has been one of the greatest joys of this trip. I have a feeling we'll see them again.

We also noted that the people of Seychelles are all tri-lingual. They are taught English, French, and Creole from an early age and live in a very peaceful society ("no guns!" exclaimed our driver). Of course, we learned that they too have their share of political problems and perhaps not surprisingly, they are all too familiar with our issues in the States.

We are all too aware of the juxtaposition between our island utopia and the upcoming journey to India. Once again, we must fly back up to Paris (at least for the night), and then back down to the continent of Asia. We are becoming experts at packing, flying, unpacking, and flying. I'm convined that we both have the nomad gene.

Cape Town

2007-02-04T03:39:00.000-08:00

We arrived in Cape Town and instantly noticed a remarkable resemblance to the coast of Southern California - a taste of home. Even better than the vision of beautiful beaches and hillsides was the SUSHI! Finally, we find sushi that can be eaten without fear and prayer. While in Cape Town, we drove up to the vineyards, took a long tour around Cape Point (the southern most point of the country where the Indian and Atlantic oceans meet). If you touch the water, you will notice the Indian Ocean is quite a bit warmer. We went to a penguin colony, explored the countryside, and took a cable car up to Table Mountain - named 'Table' because on a cloudy day, it looks like a table set in white tablecloth. It was absolutely stunning and the weather was perfect.

We also learned that though English is the primary language, many South Africans speak Afrikaans, a Dutch-originated language spoken by both all races. We also met native South Africans who speak up to 12 languages!

Cape Town is very laid back. The people are extremely friendly toward foreigners. They look forward to hosting the World Cup in 2010 and as one cabbie put it, "to show everyone our beautiful city so they can invest here!" If there's anything that could drive the Western world to visit Cape Town, it's definitely soccer!

African Safari

2007-01-31T23:48:00.000-08:00

One of the pitfalls of traveling on a RTW (‘round the world) airline ticket is that you must fly on one airline only or one of its alliance partners. Thus, chances are that you may not be able to fly direct to your next stop. Sadly, we were forced to fly from Sao Paolo through Paris, France before connecting to Johannesburg, South Africa. We had a 5-hour layover in Paris and a very long flight back down to the southern hemisphere.

We took a small plane from J-burg to our lodge near Kruger National Park, where we were greeted on the landing strip with fresh juice and ice cold washcloths. Another hour and we were in the middle of The Bush.

We decided to spoil ourselves on safari and stayed at the Singita Private Game Reserve - Lobombo lodge. Words cannot describe the warmth and attentiveness of the staff. On safari, you develop close relationships with your Ranger and Tracker. They are charged with taking you through the park in a open air vehicle, and locating all the animals you wish to see. The Big 5-- safari speak for Lion, Leopard, Rhinoceros, Elephant, Buffalo – was a tall order but our team’s intuition and experience led us to all 5 and more.

On our first morning drive, we discovered the Lion’s Pride- 21 LIONS! This was a jackpot indeed. It was remarkable (albeit scary!) to see them so close to our vehicle. We were surrounded by unbelievable beauty and wildlife. The rangers and trackers have grown up in the Bush and we were fascinated by how they were able to scoop up a handful of dirt, determine the direction of the wind, and lead us straight to the elephants. Shepard (our trusted ranger) and Johnson (senior tracker) were brilliant. Leopards are extremely difficult to spot but after offroading up to the tops of the rocky mountain sides, we found our magnificent leopard. The jungle around him was all but silent, as birds and neighboring prey warned one another of his presence. He was beautiful, graceful, and quite frightening to watch from a near distance.

Every morning, we awoke at 5 a.m. with the sunrise, drove for several hours, and did it all over again at 4 p.m. Everyone in the Bush is just as excited to see wild game as the first-timers. They never tire of the chase or the observance of game life. It was fantastic to talk with Shepard, and learn about his personal history and path. He is someone we will remember and talk about for a long time.

On one of our final days, we stumbled upon three ‘preoccupied’ lions – one male and two females. We were fortunate enough to witness the mating rituals of these lions, as well as a complicated dance of seduction between the younger female and older female lions who were vying for the king’s attention. We got it on video! At first, it felt intrusive but they really didn’t seem me to mind our presence.

After our 4 days, I’m sad to leave the Bush. I never thought of myself as a diehard animal lover, but you just can’t help but get caught up in all the glory and mystique. The animals bear so much resemblance to humans. Besides the aforementioned mating episode, we saw baboons peeling and eating exotic fruits in the same manner as we do. The elephants walk together, protecting the youngest of the group by placing her in the middle – just as we do.

I probably sound like a broken record, but we must return here as well. It was truly one of the greatest experiences of my life and I enjoyed every second of it. The photos fill in the blanks…

Natal (Northern Brazil)

2007-01-21T08:48:00.001-08:00

In doing research about Brazil, we decided to see the North part of the country. We heard from Argentines that Natal was a relatively up-and-coming paradise on earth. It has not yet become a large tourist destination and it’s known for its pure sandy beaches and sand dunes. By now, we’ve picked up a few words in Portuguese but find ourselves using Spanish more than anything. Our hotel, Ponto do Madeira, informed us that we are the first North Americans to visit the hotel in 2 years! From the hotel, we climbed down a couple hundred steps to reach the sand – fine, soft, and creamy white. The water was warmer than bathwater!

We spent 4 days bodysurfing, reading, and staring at the beautiful star-filled skies at night. It was the first time I remembered looking up at the sky and really observing the stars. In 5 minutes, we witnessed three shooting stars. I had an epiphany in Natal. There is so much beauty around us (especially Santa Monica) but over the past several years, working and living an impatient life, I cannot recall looking at the stars once! I hope that I recall such glimpses of clarity once we’ve settled back in LA, juggling our busy schedules, and falling back into old habits. For now, I’m more relaxed than I have been in a long time… After a quick layover in Sao Paolo, we are off to SOUTH AFRICA!

Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

2007-01-21T08:18:00.000-08:00

Everywhere we went, people were warning us of the dangers in Rio. We have read about the violence in recent years, but it was unbelievable how many people gave cautionary advice when we told them that we were planning to visit Rio. One guy told us to be wary of taxis that drive through tunnels. He said that gang members close off both ends of the tunnel and rob everyone inside! Thankfully, we faced no problems in Rio and noticed police on virtually every corner.

We were particularly excited about Rio because our friends from home, Mark and Vic, were joining us there. Another great friend, Lisa, was unable to make it to Rio at the last minute and she was greatly missed. Dear Lisa, if it’s any consolation, the weather was hardly beach-friendly and it rained throughout our stay. We only had one full day on the sand.

One of the most extraordinary characteristics of Rio is the dramatic juxtaposition of giant rock formations outlining the beautiful beaches and city streets. Rio was lively and throbbing with energy. We heard native drumming morning and night (there were raves at the beach after sunset) and despite the rain, we managed to see many of the sites – Ipanema Beach (you’ve all heard the song, ‘Girl from Ipanema’), Copacabana (no relation to Barry Manilow’s song that I still can’t get out of my head), and Corcovado (overlooking all of Rio). Mark and Vic’s friendly faces were the first familiar ones we had seen on our journey around the world. We had a blast spending time with them, purchasing local art, and exploring the town together. Additionally, we reconnected with the couple we met in Bariloche, Argentina. They invited us to dinner with their family and welcomed us into their home. We hope to return the favor when their adorable daughter makes her way to California.

Buzios, Brazil

2007-01-20T13:41:00.000-08:00

Brazil was our the last stop on the South American continent. The moment you enter Brazil, you see bright colors everywhere – homes, streets, fashion, and the natural topography.

We decided to start in Buzios, a quaint fisherman’s village that Bridgett Bardot popularized in the ‘60s (they pay homage to her everywhere). The water was spectacularly blue, the surrounding trees popped in dynamic shades of green, and the rocks were deep reddish brown. Buzios’ center was set in cobblestone and there were dozens and dozens of restaurants and bikini shops to visit as you made your way through the downtown area. Our hotel, Casas Barancas, was perched directly over the water and the view was stunning, particularly during sunset. We met a couple from South Africa (currently residing in Australia) and rented a buggie to two of the 23 beaches in Buzios. Our new friends, Tracy and David, were traveling to similar cities in South America and so we swapped stories and will see them in Sydney later in March. It’s funny- there are so few English speakers traveling through Brazil that I think finding people who understand your language is recipe for instant friendship. We found we have a tremendous amount in common with them and look forward to keeping in touch.

Farewell Argentina

2007-01-07T06:11:00.000-08:00

While planning this 8-month journey around the globe, we wanted to really immerse ourselves in a different (preferably Spanish-speaking) culture. Argentina seemed our best choice (can’t beat the exchange rate!) and our intuition proved accurate. Though we struggled with the language at first, I recall words of a former colleague in times of mental difficulty (i.e. inadequate revenue growth). “Push yourself. Make yourself uncomfortable.” With that same spirit, we survived. We ordered off Spanish menus, we learned the ‘vos’ tense spoken in Argentina alone, and we phoned for taxis regularly– always with a silent prayer that they would actually show up! Incidentally, don’t even think about driving a car in B.A. Not even your best NYC cabbie could keep up with the Argentinean taxi drivers. There are no rules. Pedestrians have no rights. The lines on the roads mean nothing.

It goes without saying the steak will be missed. I know I speak for myself when I say that I am strongly considering conversion to Vegetarianism upon our departure. I can’t fathom going back to the tough stuff. The culinary experience overall was a lovely surprise. I could go on and on about the steak, but I think you get the point. In all seriousness, while the steak is phenomenal, Argentina is much more than good cows-- wonderful people, great architecture, fantastic nightlife, very good museums, and great wine.

Final Thoughts

Leaving your safety zone is not easy, and there are certainly moments of longing for peanut butter and good quality sushi, but being away from the comforts of home has also been surprisingly liberating. I have already disposed of some of the clothes and toiletries I originally packed for the trip, and slowly, I find myself becoming more and more of a minimalist. By the time we reach India, I may be down to a duffle bag.

As we sit on the plane to Brazil, we vow to return to Argentina again, perhaps with our children (if for no other reason than its fine qualiy beef).

Hasta Luego Argentina!

Iguazu Falls

2007-01-06T18:00:00.000-08:00

Our final excursion within Argentina was to Iguazu Falls. Often compared to Niagara Falls in Canada, Iguazu borders Argentina and Brazil and is said to be far more magnificent. We spent only 2 nights in Iguazu (which is plenty since it’s a small town centered on the park) and our hotel (Sheraton Iguazu) was actually located within the park itself.

After a short hike, we took a quick boat ride (more like a raft, really) around the Falls where our captain steered us directly underneath the waterfall several times to be assured that his passengers would not walk away with dry clothing. We were pleasantly (it was hot that day) drenched. We then took a small train to ‘La Garganta del Diablo’ – aka. The devil’s throat. The sheer beauty and absolute power of the Falls were overwhelming. Looking at the magnificent sheets of rushing water, I half expected the heavens to part and swallow us whole. It was a truly spiritual experience and moments after arriving at the ‘throat’ (a circular formation of the waterfalls), it began to rain.

Thus, Nature provided an appropriate close to our time in Argentina. As we walked across a bridge to catch the train back to our hotel, we encountered our very first celebrity on the voyage. Passing us on the bridge with his entourage (his wife) we found John Lithgow (from ‘Third Rock from the Sun’) braving the rain toward the devil’s throat. Oddly enough, other tourists (Argentinean and Brazilian alike) had spotted him as well. I guess celebrity really is cross cultural for some. By the way, he lives in LA.

And with that, we returned to B.A. for our final two nights. Can you believe it? Our 6 weeks in the country of mouth-watering steak have come to an end. Sensing an uncomfortable goodbye to the superior beef, we made dinner reservations from our hotel in Iguazu at our favorite Parilla (grill) for the best steak in Buenos Aires. Cabana Las Lilas will provide us with our last Argentinean meal. It is all too much to bear for Lee.

Bariloche in Patagonia

2006-12-30T06:59:00.000-08:00

Would you believe that surrounded by forests and lakes, lies a quaint Swiss-like village 2 hours South of Buenos Aires? We finally hit a climate requiring more than t-shirt and shorts. Bariloche is a beautiful Patagonian ski town in the winter, and lake town in the summer. Since it's now summertime, the weather was just starting to warm up but was still about 55 degrees Farenheit when we arrived.

The town features a number of Swiss and local cuisine restuarants as well as modest hotels and B&Bs. For me, however, the most appealing part of Bariloche was the chocolate shops lining each of the streets. Think about a store the size of Rite-Aid filled with window displays of every possible kind of chocolate. I was in heaven.

We managed to pack in a little adventure as well (see photos of canopying below). We took a car up to the mountains and signed up for an afternoon in the forest, literally swinging from the treetops! It was incredible to glide across the cables that connected platforms deep in the middle of the forest.

As was the case in other parts of our Argentinian journey, we met wonderful people everywhere we went. Even with the language barrier (tourists from Brazil who speak Portuguese travel frequently to Argentina), we managed to make friends at the restaurants and exchange both emails and photos. We've already received dinner invitations in Chile and Brazil! Our taxi driver, noticing my interest in Ricki Martin's song in Spanish, gave me his copy of the CD. Truly, there is something in the water because we faced kindness with every turn.

HAPPY NEW YEAR!

2006-12-26T12:16:00.000-08:00

Wishing you all a happy and healthy New Year. We will be thinking of you as we ring in 2007!

Hugs and kisses from Buenos Aires,
Deb and Lee Essner

Argentina Wine Country: MENDOZA

2006-12-24T13:35:00.000-08:00

We were told that Mendoza, southwest of Buenos Aires and a 2-hour flight, is a must-see for Argentina visitors and wine lovers alike. We were NOT disappointed. Though we typically drink full-bodied California Cabernets at home, we quickly learned that the wine of choice in Argentina, hands down, is the Malbec. Ironically, 'Malbec' literally means 'bad nose' in Spanish (you'd think they'd change the name at some point, no?). We found them to be rich, heavy, complicated, and delicious. In fact, we have yet to find one we didn't like. Even the less expensive varieties are very good.

We stayed at a small 12-bedroom house-turned-hotel attached to its own winery and vineyard. The weather was perfect - dry but not too hot. Our hotel organized private tours of four wineries over the course of two days and each day we had an unbelievable lunch (see Lee and spread in photo below). If you liked Napa Valley 15-20 years ago, you will LOVE Mendoza. There are vineyards on every side of the road and the background to these lush green farms is the snow-capped mountains bordering Chile. Incidentally, there is a huge rivalery between Argentina and Chile. Argentines are notorious for raising prices of their goods (particularly leather) for their Chilean neighbors. They are very protective of their wine, too, and will tell you that Chileans only have a small area of land optimal for wine.

On our first day in Mendoza, we met newlyweds from-- you guessed it -- Los Angeles (do you see a theme?)! We spent the day sharing multiple bottles of wine and dinner with them. It was a real treat and we look forward to connecting with them at home in a few months. It's truly a small world...

The wineries we visited were all different- we went to the following and highly recommend them:

Carinae: Small boutique winery run by a French couple who decided to abandon their lives in Paris and try something different. They knew nothing about wine at the time but have managed to develop a very nice variety of wines.
Cove de Cano: The lunch here was unlike anything we have ever experienced. They served us an enormous spread in the charming caves of the winery and all of the dishes had some variation of Malbec wine incorporated. We enjoyed Malbec-infused rice, grilled onions in Malbec, Malbec pears, and of course, lots of wine.
Landelia: This winery has not yet opened to the public, but they walked us through the entire process of wine-making and we tasted all of their soon-to-be released varieties. It is owned by a Swiss businessman who started the project almost 10 years ago. Imagine 10 years without a profit!
Familia Zuccardi: This is a the opposite end of the spectrum from Carinae. It's a very large operation. The winery is only about 60 years old (that's considered young) and all the machinery/equipment is modern and new. They are experimenting with new technologies and do very very well in terms of sales. Rather than tasting in the traditional fashion, they let us taste the wines straight from the gigantic stainless steele tanks.

We spent only 2 nights in Mendoza, and would love to return someday. We flew back to B.A. on Saturday night and are spending a quiet Christmas Day at our apartment. It's starting to dawn on us that we only have 2 weeks in Argentina left. Our mini-trips to Punta and Mendoza have been fantastic, and we have 2 more (Bariloche and Iguazu Falls) left before leaving the country.

We hope everyone's having a wonderful holiday at home. We miss our friends and family especially at this time, but luckily, we have Skype and email access. We wish you all a very happy and healthy 2007! Feliz fin de ano!

"Januca" in Punta del Este, Uruguay

2006-12-24T13:23:00.000-08:00

The flight from B.A. to Punta del Este was less than 30 minutes long. We arrived just before the pandemonium which is said to begin the day after Christmas and all through January. The town was gearing up for over 300,000 visitors from all over the world - Brazil, Argentina, and Europe for the most part. As luck would have it, the first people we met were from Santa Monica, California.

We spent the first few days of Chanukkah ('Januca' in Spanish) in Punta and relaxed on the famous Bikini Beach and poolside, before dining in the small port town in the evenings. Unfortunately, the weather was not always clear and a few showers interrupted our sunbathing. It was a short two-night getaway but a worthwhile one. We returned to B.A. for a night, and returned to the airport the following morning for our next getaway...

Exploring B.A.

2006-12-12T13:28:00.000-08:00

We are now in our third week in Buenos Aires (pronounced Buenos AY-RES). Much to my own surprise, fears of communicating in Spanish have subsided quite a bit since our arrival. That, I attribute to our 9 hr/wk of Spanish lessons and a conscious effort to listen, watch, and read everything in sight. We frequently watch TV programs in Spanish, as well as the imported movies that are subtitled in Spanish. Word of caution, the translations are not always accurate.

Though Lee has unsuccessfully located issues of his favorite magazine, The Economist, here in Buenos Aires, I managed to find a few for me in English. I was thrilled to find InStyle at a local newsstand but halfway through the issue, I realized that it was older than originally thought at the time of purchase. I assumed the November issue was for this year. But a photo of Jessica Simpson and Nick Lachey together clued me in (yes, that's sad)- it was from 2005. Just goes to show, much of the content you find in such lifestyle magazines can be recycled year after year. The lesson here, English-language pubs are not only more expensive, but they are always outdated.

We went to our first Tango show recently (see photos below). Tango is HUGE in Argentina. It's not uncommon to find mini-Tango shows occurring on the streets of B.A. We attended a dinner/show at one of the most beautiful hotels we've ever seen - Faena Hotel in the newest part of town called Puerto Madero. Also popular are Tango shows that are followed by dance lessons for audience members. Unfortunately, Lee has zero interest in partaking in this beautiful past time. Those of you who know Lee, can't blame him. Just kidding, honey!

Before signing off, I must speak a four-letter word: MEAT. Those of you who enjoy a nice steak with a fine bottle of red wine should stop what you're doing, buy a ticket to Argentina, and come here IMMEDIATELY. Apparently, Argentinian cows eat grass and American ones eat corn. Es una differencia muy GRANDE! The steak - whether it's rib eye, tenderloin, or fillet Mignon, is as tender as butter. And the best part, you can enjoy two very fine portions of meat AND a bottle of wine for less than $40 US. Now, I like a nice petite fillet like the next girl, but this stuff is addictive. I must remind myself to have my cholesterol checked when we return, though from what I can tell, America suffers far greater from obesity than the carnivorous Argentine folk. Is there something really to the low-carb craze??

On Sunday, we're off to Punta del Este (Uruguay) for a few days. After several weeks of hustle and bustle city life, beach time will be a nice respite. We've planned weekend excursions for the duration of our stay in Argentina (departing the country on Jan 7). After Punta, we head to the wine country, called Mendoza, and Bariloche - located in Patagonia. Hasta luego...

Espanol 101

2006-12-02T06:00:00.000-08:00

We arrived in Buenos Aires 6 days ago and have not yet taken ONE picture. Unlike my previous entries (admittedly heavy on facts), I have nothing to say about the city's history or the major tourist attractions. We decided to soak it all in and become acclimated to our surroundings. Plus, we're tired of carrying our camera around.

Our first task: learn/brush up on Spanish. My first realization - it's all Castellano here. Despite a few years of training in Spanish, I can barely make out 50% of the conversations here. I now have some appreciation for foreigners who visit the US and struggle with all the various accents (e.g. Southern, New York, Valley Girl). We found a small school and enrolled in Spanish classes for the next several weeks. Of course, they teach THEIR own flavor (as our teacher put it, "YOU Americans wouldn't teach English in the British accent, would you?" - which is quite different than what we learned in our home state of Cali-Mexico. And, they talk really fast. We've had our first two classes already and the frustration level is at Level Orange. Ay caramba!

We love our apartment. It's gigantic, with hardwood floors and vaulted ceilings. The water pressure is low, but we don't care. It's in a charming building built in 1910 and we have a nice view of the neighborhood park. The owner is an architect and has a keen eye for interior design. We have a full kitchen and went to the nearby 'supermercado' to pick up some essentials. Nobody really speaks English here and the labels are not always helpful so, we have probably purchased swiss cheese instead of provolone, and Half & Half instead of milk. The supermarket is like Kmart and VONS in one - 2 stories and just as many brands as we have.

We managed to find the jelly/jam aisle but could not find any peanut butter. Lee found the word for 'peanut butter' in his handy translator toy and we attempted to ask an employee where it might be located. He looked at us like we were nuts (pun intended) and pointed to their Dulce de Leche section. They have 15 different kinds of dulce de leche- a sweet dessert spread that looks like peanut butter but with 4 Xs the calories. Think nutella but caramel-flavored.

We were on a mission now. We went to every market in the neighborhood asking for the stuff. Finally, one store owner said that some specialty stores carry peanut butter but it's really bad. Now, we have not felt much home-sickness so far but in that moment, I could see the sadness on Lee's face. I felt a lump in my throat. We miss the good 'ole fashioned nutty, the creamy, the Skippy, and even Jiff.

If you're reading this now, take a large spoon, dip it into your peanut butter jar and savor each morsel. Though everything is dirt cheap here (the peso is about 1/3 of the dollar), we would be more than willing to pay blackmarket prices for a taste of American peanut butter...

Lima and Machupicchu

2006-11-28T06:38:00.000-08:00

Thanksgiving in Peru

We left Belize just before Thanksgiving and arrived in Lima in time for Turkey Day. However, Peruvians don't really eat much turkey and most certainly do not celebrate the holiday. Our journey to Machupicchu was long and arduous indeed. We spent one night (roughly 3 hours of sleep at a hotel near the airport) in Lima and took the first flight to Cusco. Cusco was once known as the Inca civilization's capital (see last picture below). The altitude in Cusco is over 10,000 ft - extremely thin air. Most tourists who are unaccustomed to the altitude experience some degree of illness. We were lucky- it didn't hit us as badly. When we arrived at our hotel in Cusco, they served us a bitter drink called 'Mate Coca' - which is supposed to alleviate symptoms of altitude sickness. It was quite delicious and we enjoyed it several times a day. After a brief stroll through town, we went back to get plenty of sleep before our trek to Machupicchu.

When we had first arrived at our hotel in Cusco, a woman we assumed worked for the hotel, began to check us in and discuss our tour options for Machupicchu. This is not exactly a scam but these agents conspire with the hotels so they can get to you upon arrival. She helped arrange our train and bus tickets, tour of the Inca ruins, and return to Cusco. Our time in Peru was in stark contrast to that in Belize. We were up every morning before 5 a.m. and experienced all forms of transportation almost every day we spent there. It's just par for the course and if you can look past the travel time and hassle, you will have an incredible experience.

Machupicchu

For those who may not remember the history of Machupicchu - a very brief lesson. Machupicchu is a lost city built by the Inca civilization in the early 1400s. They estimate that less than 1000 inhabitants actually lived in the now ruins, which took about 150 years to build - you can see signs that it was still a work in progress and they had not finished. Sadly, they were interupted by the Spaniards who attempted to conquer Peru in 1532. Essentially, the town was built for Incan royalty - kings mostly, not commoners.

After a 4-hour train ride and 25 minutes bus ride from the town 'Aguas Calientes,' we arrived in Machupicchu. It was spectacular and since the elevation was lower than that in Cusco (7,000 ft or so), we could finally breathe easier. When your tour guide takes you up to the ruins, you literally cannot believe what you see. There are two segments to the ruins - the agricultural section and the urban section. The agricultural section was made up on terraces where they did the farming. The urban section was where the kings resided. The steps were often steep and slippery (especially since it was damp and later rainy). They were very short people back then (and actually, the people of Peru are still shorter comparatively) so everything was lower. Felt like home to me!

We spent a few hours in the ruins, just marveling at how awesome it all was. We have vowed to return again someday - perhaps with our children. According to a man we met on the train (a UN representative from Bolivia who visited 12 years ago), the surrounding area (Aguas Calientes) is far more tourist-centric. Back when he first visited, there were less than 50 people visiting the ruins. During our visit, there were hundreds of visitors from all over the world. It was one of the most inspiring places I have ever seen and a huge highlight. We have many more countries to see, but Machupicchu is my personal favorite thus far and an absolute MUST if you ever have the opportunity to visit.

Our "concierge" (if we can call her that) screwed up our train tickets so we were forced to take a late train back to Cusco. But as it turns out, we were on the party train. The crew members were unlike any other. They played house/techno music, conducted a fashion show, and even put on a dance performance for the passengers. It made the 4-hour ride go by faster.

The next morning, we flew back to Lima for an additional night and hoped to get a better impression than the initial stay prior to our Machupicchu adventure. This time, our hotel was in Miraflores - known as the nicest neighborhood in the city. We purchased some art by an extremely talented local artist (Junin) in the surrealist form and will likely order additional works (he's already going global!). He is incredible and of course, very humble.

Our friend from the UN had recommended a restaurant called 'Astrid y Gaston' and we later learned that it was one of the world's finest restaurants. It was a gastronomical joy! The restaurant was gorgeous - walls covered with art and the service, impeccable. I expressed some interest in the country's typical beverage- Pisco Sour and within minutes, the head bartender (Hans from Germany) came to our table to give me samples of the beverage. Needless to say, our impression of Lima improved 10-fold by the time we left.

At this point, we are looking forward to staying put somewhere (we have been living out of our suitcases). Our next stop is Buenos Aires, where we are renting an apartment in the Recoleta district for about 6 weeks. I had read an article in the New York Times about short-term rentals in B.A. and found a beautiful Parisian building through a quoted resource. Vamos a ver (we shall see)!

First stop, Belize

2006-11-22T06:00:00.000-08:00

LARIUM VS. MALARONE

One of the biggest decisions we made this week, prior to departure, was over malaria drugs. We’ll be spending 60 days in “malaria zones” throughout the next several months and our doctor suggested taking either Larium or Malarone. If you google Larium, you’ll read about the many lawsuits and horror stories involving patients who had experienced (and continue to experience) adverse side effects. Some have psychotic episodes and hallucinations for years following administration of the drug. So, we opted for Malarone, which was said to have fewer adverse side effects overall. We took our first dose the day before our departure and within the hour, Lee was feeling extreme nausea, pounding headache, and just plain loopy (his word, not mine). Luckily, we had filled both prescriptions and after consulting our doctor, my brother (also a physician), and our local pharmacist, we decided Lee should switch to Larium. We continue to cross our fingers and hope he doesn’t go psychotic! It was certainly a bumpy start but by our 3:30 a.m. wake up call, we were forced to get into gear. Lee awoke to a slightly minor headache but all in all, the side effects subsided long enough for us to board our flight to Belize City.

BELIZE

We landed in Belize City in the early evening, exhausted, and decided to get a quick bite at the hotel restaurant before retiring to bed. Belize City is less than glamorous. If not for the airport’s location and flight schedules, few tourists would stay in the city. Most stay for one night only and take a morning flight to one of the resort towns. We were set to fly to Placencia – a quiet peninsula that boasts one of the best snorkeling and diving spots in the country. On our drive to the airport, our taxi pointed out the homes that were literally sinking because Belize City is 6 feet below sea level. The swampy town did offer some local excursions – a tour of their flagship beer (Belican – which we enjoyed very much) and the citrus factory. Though the streets were unpaved and dirty, everyone was kind and generous. We found this a common thread in Belize.

Belize has two airlines: Tropic Air and Maya Air. Things are very easygoing at the airport. We barely showed our e-ticket confirmation – they just took down our names and compared them to their list of passengers. Soon, we were escorted to our very own Sessna. As it turns out, we were the only two passengers on that flight! Needless to say, we had plenty of legroom. Once aboard, our friendly pilot says, “Welcome aboard. We have a quick stop before heading to our final destination.” I didn't realize planes had unplanned stops... Lee was busy taking photos with our new camera and didn’t seem to mind the additional flights. We landed at the other airport in Belize City, boarded an even smaller Sessna (alone again) and were informed of yet ANOTHER stop! It was certainly beautiful flying over the country and the pilots managed smooth landings onto the slim airstrips.

We were greeted in Placencia by the nicest people you will ever meet. Our hotel, LaruBeya, was voted # 1 on TripAdvisor and we can see why. We are less than 25 yards away from the water’s edge in a roomy suite (kitchen included). The water is as warm as bathwater, shades of emerald and turquoise. It’s our first few days in paradise and we don’t have a telephone, cell phone, blackberry, television, or internet access (I'm typing this at the airport). You may not believe it, but even Lee has managed to forget about his technological toys for a while. Placencia is a remote peninsula, measuring roughly 21 miles long and one road- rocky and only paved near the airport and Francis Ford Copolla's gorgeous resort. It’s a little like Gilligan’s Island – but we are far more prepared for malaria! We are surrounded by bountiful beauty and peace.

We spent 7 days in Placencia and made some great new friends. It's a tiny village and the biggest controversy between various groups of locals is whether or not they should actually pave the main road. Those who argue against it claim that the town will lose its charm and become another touristy destination. We can certainly understand that arguement (compare Cabo San Lucas).

We met interesting people, including a sweet Italian woman who moved to Placencia after visiting before the hurricane hit several years ago (scars of the devastation still remain though most of the homes were rebuilt). She and her husband opened a genuine Italian gelato shop in the middle of town and feel they were destined to introduce the ice cream treat to the locals. They make their ice cream fresh daily and you'll never find a better tasting peanut butter.

Getting into travel mode was easy in Belize -- we relaxed and prepared for our next stop: Peru and hiking Machu Picchu.

Please Keep in Touch!

2006-11-01T20:23:00.000-08:00

We're going to miss our families and friends tremendously. It goes without saying that you all have an open invitation to join us throughout our journey. If you want to get a hold of us, the best methods are:

1. Email us on our gmail accounts
2. Download Skype and call us (we're listed in the directory under LeeEssner)

Look forward to hearing from you!

Planning... so much to do

2006-11-01T14:42:00.000-08:00

With our departure just a few short weeks away, our days are spent entirely running errands. Between immunizations, Visas, tickets, and hotel reservations, planning is really a full-time gig! While our itinerary has been largely finalized, it has been extremely difficult to decide where to go given all the fascinating places from which to choose.

Here is our current itinerary. We leave on November 14, 2006.

Los Angeles to Belize
Belize to Lima, Peru
Lima to Machu Picchu
Machu Picchu to Buenos Aires
Buenos Aires to Rio de Janeiro
Rio de Janeiro to Bahia
Bahia to Cape Town, S. Africa
Cape Town to Kruger National Park (Safari)
Kruger National Park to Seychelles Islands
Seychelles to Mumbai, India
Mumbai to Delhi, India
Delhi to Goa, India
Goa to Kerala, India
Kerala to Maldives Islands
Maldives to Hong Kong
Hong Kong to Shanghai, China
Shanghai to Sydney, Australia
Sydney to Gold Coast, Australia
Gold Coast to Cairnes (Great Barrier Reef), Australia
Cairnes to Auckland, New Zealand
New Zealand to Fiji
Fiji to Los Angeles

We return to Los Angeles on April 17, 2007 for two weeks, then head to Marbella, Spain until July 17, 2007